A month later, I returned to Chiang Rai when a chill had seeped into its somber buildings. With neither chauffeur nor schedule, I ambled under the foliage of colossal trees, took idle Grab rides under a halcyon sky, and sat in reverie with artworks that not only respond to their venues’ multilayered narratives but also reveal the historical, ecological, and sociopolitical undercurrents of Thailand’s northernmost province. In Mae Fah Luang Art and Cultural Park, I sat in awe inside Haw Kham—a traditional Lanna house made of teakwood—where Ri s̄eīyng (Sound-Less), 2023, Nguyễn Trinh Thi’s ethereal sound installation, encodes the Mekong River’s ebbs and flows, through recorded movements of water turbines, into diaphanous sounds emitting from Thai ranat and flutes. Similarly, Citra Sasmita’s sprawling installation, titled Timur Merah project X: Theater in the Land of God and Beasts, 2023, with giant, gold-headed nagas whose bodies comprise crimson braids circumscribing a painting depicting fiery goddesses, presented a subtle nod toward the subterranean power of feminine spirituality.
Curators : Angkrit Ajchariyasophon, Manuporn Luengaram